Troubleshoot

New Way Engine
Trouble shoot is broken into several sections:-

• 1st Attempt - WON'T START?
• A comprehensive look at many troubleshooting options
• New Way Stationary Engine runs but lacks power
• New Way Engine seeps oil from crank bearings etc.
• New Way Engine Fan seizes on the fan shaft
• New Way Engine Fuel Mixture Troubles
• New Way Engine Ignition Troubles
• New Way Hit Miss Governor Troubles

1st Attempt - WON'T START?

You thought it was ready to go but it just won't play ball - it refuses to start. Well it is a NEW WAY and it "Goes and it Goes Right". 

So it amounts to one thing "You've Gone and Dun Gone Done something Wrong" I expect you have all the basics in place the basics in place like good compression and fuel in the tank and a spark at the spark plug.

If those are there it comes down to only 2 things

• Timing
• Fuel mixture

Diagnostic - what is it and what are your options?

Start with the Fuel - it is easiest to use to eliminate an ignition timing problem especially on the crude early mixer engines.

1. Early engines had a little combination cup and tap on the side of the cylinder that allows you to give the engine a little "SNORT" of fuel. This amounts to a definite fuel supply and bypasses everything else in the fuel system.
1. Pour fuel in the cup and turn the tap and the raw fuel runs into the cylinder. Immediately turn the crankhandle and if the ignition is anywhere near correct timing and sufficient High Volts (strong Blue spark is good) the engine will fire. Possibly a couple of good ignitions before the fuel mixture is no longer flamable.
1. If your engine has no cup then removing the spark plug provides you with another fuel "SNORT" point. [Pour in a little fuel and quickly replace the spark plug and crank.]
2. Remember you have poured in raw fuel. It is not a mixture so it rides round on the piston rings to get crudely mixed. Don't put too much in or you effective flood the engine with fuel
1. Remember we are operating with crude mixtures and quite a bit of cranking may be necessary to achieve a combustible mixture and you may need a couple of "SNORTS".
2. If you think you have put too much fuel in - Check the spark plug and make sure it isn't wet from your over exuberant "SNORTING". If it is wet with fuel then it is time to crank the engine with the plug out. This will weaken the mixture. As well you need to dry out the plug. 
1. Ensure the plug lead is not near the plug hole while you crank or you may have an inadvertent firing
3. All you are trying to do is see if the engine will definitely fire with the ignition as set. 
1. If "yes it fired" then the most likely cause for failure to start normally is the normal fuel intake system. 
2. If "No it didn't fire" then you likely have an ignition timing or HV problem.
2. SPARK PLUG 
1. No Cracks - Insulator not cracked inside or outside.
2. Gap Correctly - excessively large gap will cause a miss especially under load
3. Clean - Not carboned up with black soot - Carbon is a conductor and will short out the spark plug especially when the motor is under heavy load.
1. Black carbon usually caused by a "Too Rich" mixture.
1. Adjust the mixer needle. 
4. Spanner Tensioned properly -  Don't be tempted to finger tighten - they can become a missile if finger tightened and come loose. It is too easy to forget
1. Spark Plugs don't just fall out - likely, explosive force will strip the threads when the spark plug is nearly out with deadly force.
2. If the Spark Plug insulator is removable, you have 2 threads to tighten - ensure it is also tightened properly.
3. TIMING
1. Is the Cam/Crankshaft timing set correctly for both valve (fuel) and ignition timing.
1. Buzz Coil system - with crank points operated is it functioning correctly with good STRONG spark at the plug with the spark plug removed
1. Battery - You can check it will carry the load with ammeter.
2. LV Friction Magneto - is the output voltage sufficient to run the Buzz coil?
1. New Way used a Buzz coil matched to LV magnetos for continuous running.
2. HV Magneto -
1. Factory fitted were gear driven. - Need to be correctly timed by teeth positioning as per particular engine manual to time the spark near Top Dead Centre [TDC].
2. After market fitted Chain Driven - generally a cog was fitted to the crank shaft and the sprocket set to provide the appropriately timed spark. NOTE this is consequently set totally independent of usual valve timing.
3. Points
1. Points spring not snapped.
2. Cleaned
3. Adjusted correct gap
4. Good strong "BLUE" spark
1. A yellow spark generally indicates the condenser/capacitor is on the way out. It may work under "no load" but fail under load or when the engine gets hot.
4. FUEL SYSTEM
1. FUEL TANK - for first start it is best to have tank full so there is less draw required to get fuel to mixer.
1. Ensure fuel line and basic filter in tank is not blocked with old fuel sludge etc.
2. MIXER
1. Check mixture needle for corrosion and that the fuel path is clear.
1. Set Mixture 
2. Ensure the fuel cam is set on START. 
3. Move fuel cam toward RUN as the motor warms up.
3. INTAKE PIPE - Ensure there are no leaks on any joins between the mixer and the intake valve
1. A frothy weak detergent mix in a nozzled bottle squirted on the joins is a good way to detect where any air is being drawn in after the mixer.
2. Remember it is a long draw from the mixer upwards on the early verticles so it is important there are no leaks. 
4.   Automatic INTAKE VALVE
1. Ensure spring tension is set appropriately.

New Way Stationary Engine runs but lacks power

• Check Ignition Timing is as per engine model instruction manual. Refer LIBRARY for engine manual download if necessary.
• Ensure Fuel Mixer (Carburettor) is operating/adjusted correctly to provide correct Fuel/Air ratio
• Ensure New Way Motor Company's so called Automatic Intake Valve spring tension is set correctly. Wrong spring or tension set too high means the engine vacuum will not open the intake valve early enough to get sufficient mixture even if the Fuel/Air ratio is correct. The motor will be underpowered - like running your car on part throttle
• Ensure exhaust valve is operating correctly and the push rod and fixings are in place. Governor linkage not riding holding the valve partly open.
• Brass Governor ring on crankshaft may be badly worn or unevenly worn on or from one leg of the fork only.

New Way Engine seeps oil from crank bearings etc.

• Minor leak - Check there is not too much slop/play in the crank bearings where the crank shaft leaves the housing. Play here will not generally not cause noise. You may be able to feel wear simply by sharply lifting a flywheel up and down. NOTE - Knocking noise is generally caused by failure or major wear to little/big end.
• Major/Excessive Oil leak - Check for crank case cracks, oil overfilling the crankcase and overpressurising of crankcase, all can cause oil to exit the engine.
• Excessive blow by from worn cylinder/rings - May over pressurise the crankcase.
• If vent valve / pipe was  as  originally fitted  to  motor - Has  it been plugged up ?
• Oiler  drip feed  is  set too  fast - Adjust to correct drip rate
• Overfills  crankcase, drain crankcase to  correct  level.
• Crankcase Breather / Fitting Blocked - 2 things happen
• Overfills  and over-pressurizes crankcase without you knowing {especially if drip rate is too fast.}

New Way Engine Fan seizes on the fan shaft

• Oil line blocked or oil line ball valve stuck. Clear the cause of the obstruction.
• Crank case air pressure too low to force oil up to feed the fan bushing. Check reasons for low pressure eg. Crank case integrity compromised - hole, large crack, open join, badly worn crank bearings/ seal.
• Bushing overload from having the fan belt too tight.
• New Way Motor Company recommended regularly checking this oil line is functioning regularly. It is actually a good trouble shooter for the whole lube system on the early vertical engines.

New Way Engine Fuel Mixture Troubles - early new way engines used a fuel mixer that was in effect little more than a tube with a butterfly and fuel jet including use of a metering needle in some cases. Refer article and photos on Mixers and carburetors (click)

• Blunt metering needle caused by wear/corrosion can prevent the fine adjustment necessary to achieve a correct and reliable mixture.
• Fuel levels in the tank can effect the fuel mixture - You may find the engine runs better if you don't allow fuel levels to run down very low.
• Blockage to the Fuel Line/Tank Filter by gummy deposits likely caused by allowing small amounts of fuel to remain in the tank for long periods without use. It is wise to drain the fuel tank when you finish running the motor especially if it is going to sit for long periods.
• Seating and Timing of Automatic intake valve - ensure the valve seat is not cracked or pitted and that the tension is set correctly to not only give a good seal but also not too strong so as to cause the valve to open too late under cylinder vacuum to allow the correct measure of fuel mix to the cylinder. 

New Way Engine Ignition Troubles

• refer detail in TIMING in 1st Start section
• Is the ignition timing to the correct TDC - [Before exhaust valve opens and not before the intake opens.]
• Involves both the engine gears as well as the magneto gears if you have had the engine stripped down on a gear driven HT Magneto.
• Involves only the Crankshaft Cog and magneto cog on an "After Market" chain driven HT Magneto 
• As a separate exercise the Cam cog needs to be timed correctly to operate the Exhaust valve.

New Way Hit Miss Governor Troubles

The New Way Hit Miss governor operates within one of the large flywheels. The principle being the centrifugal force generated by spinning weights. The weights are tension-ed so as to effect their amount of travel at the revs desired by the engine operator. This tensioning is easily adjusted by two screws near the crank shaft in the center of the flywheel. Governed revs are increased by screwing the adjustment clockwise. Visa versa to decrease.
As revs increase a brass actuating ring around the crank shaft slides inwards toward the crankcase proper. This ring presses against a forked pivoted exhaust latching lever. When revs reach the governor setting point, the exhaust latches into the exhaust lifter and prevents the exhaust from closing. The engine now free wheels until the revs drop sufficient for the latching mechanism to release and allow the exhaust valve to close. Once the exhaust valve closes the engine is ready for another power stroke.

The system is very efficient as no fuel is drawn into the engine while the exhaust is open since there is no vacuum to draw the mixture.

• Engine Revs [high speed]out of control
• If allowed to continue it will destroy itself 
• IMMEDIATE ACTION - Hold down the spring loaded Automatic Intake valve with your hand and the motor will coast to a stop 
• Rectify the cause of the revs runaway eg.
• Pin fallen out of exhaust latching lever pivot point.
• Latching lever jammed open by foreign material eg bolt etc
• Brass actuating ring around the crankshaft is worn right through where it rubs against the exhaust latching lever fork.
  a. Once the ring wears through no matter how high the revs go the forks will not be or be little effected by revs. (holes where metal should be)
  b. Occurs either on engines with massive hours or if the brass actuating ring has not been kept lubed. The latching fork is steel and it is rubbing on the softer brass actuating ring.
  c. Wear will effect how the latching mechanism works with revs a little like mal-adjusting lifters on a normal engine.
• Engine governor and latching works but it won't slow enough.
• Governor tensioning mechanism is frozen.
• Disassemble free up tension mechanism and lube
• Governed revolutions varies eg between cold and normal running.
• Beveled latching mechanism where the latching lever actuates against the lifter is either misaligned or worn. Both bevels should be sharp to ensure they slide and latch properly.
• Exhaust Latching Operation - Exhaust Valve replacement
• Exhaust latching tolerance is effected by the valve length and seating and where the cage has been extensively ground and honed.
• Changes the "relative" position of the exhaust lifter latch half.
• Changes how far the exhaust valve is held open when the engine is freewheeling.
• Too close and the engine will not breathe freely. 

Yes it's true "Goes and Goes Right". 

Nothing sounds like it.

Hope this helps!!

Enjoy

george